Herd Management
- sunrisingdairygoat
- Jun 27
- 4 min read
Here at the Sunrising herd, I fully believe that good management is the key to prevention of any illnesses, sicknesses, or issues. I've always been very open on how I raise my animals, and since I've been asked so much about what I do, I figured I'd finally put it all in writing.
First off, quality of hay is everything. If you're feeding poor hay, you're likely not going to get the results you want. That isn't always the case, as I do know some herds that feed mediocre hay and have great success! But they have also worked hard to breed for easy keepers. I have used the same hay supplier since 2018 for my herd and feed solely alfalfa (when I can). I have a great relationship with my supplier, and I feel that that's very important to have. I will attach a photo of his hay to this post.
Grain plays a big part in conditioning and production as well. While I am not a production-based herd, I do expect my does to at least carry their own weight and be able to supply enough to feed their kids! I use a custom mix that I created at a local feed mill. I will attach a photo of the feed tag as well. I have used this grain recipe since 2018 and I LOVE it. The goats do too. Many other breeders use this recipe and have good results, including one that said her herd jumped in production after starting on it! This grain is fed to again, adults, growing kids, and bucks without issue.
Minerals! Very important for a herd. I offer a free choice loose mineral called Duraferm Concept Aid, for goats currently and have had good results. Many other breeders use this brand.
ADULT DOES:
I expect a lot from my senior does. I cull anyone that isn't an "easy keeper". There's nothing I hate more than an animal that constantly needs special treatment. Does are given alfalfa that is available 24/7. Feeders are refilled 2x a day, once each milking. Grain wise, I give each doe a full 3 quart scoop while being milked. They typically will finish that off or will have just a little bit left over depending on the day or doe. Once my does are dried off for the year, they are completely taken off of grain until 1 week prior to kidding. They then get a single 3 quart scoop a day until they kid. I believe that my hay quality is what makes it possible to take my animals off of grain for the dry season.
RAISING KIDS:
Kids are a lot harder for some breeders. Me personally, I love raising the kids. It's probably my favorite thing about raising goats. Fair warning, I do raise them a lot differently than most breeders. I raise FAT kids, and most get bred as yearlings. (Weight, bone mass, growth rate, and genetics all play a part in that decision.) Fat kids have a fail safe if they get sick, meaning if they drop weight, they won't look thin or have to work to get back up to where they should be. I do not worry about the extra weight, as when kids are taken off of grain and milk, they tend to lose it.
My kids are offered as much milk as they want from a bottle 4 times a day (every 6 hours) until they are placed on a free choice lambar. They're typically swapped over to a lambar by 1-2 weeks of age. I then KEEP my kids on said free choice lambar until the youngest kid in my pen is at least 6 months old.
My choice in coccidia prevention is currently Calf-Pro. Dosage is 1cc/10lbs.
This is dosed daily based off of total kid weight and I choose to put it in their milk. (Meaning if you have 5 kids at 50lbs each, you put 25ccs of calf pro in the milk.) You can individually dose each kid via syringe if you only raise a few and are more comfortable with that or if you dam raise.
Grain is available 24/7 to the kids (given 2x a day), as well as hay and mineral. When kids are integrated into the adult herd, they're taken off of grain, which is typically around 8-9 months old.
BUCKS:
Bucks I feel are pretty simple. They don't work for most of the year, so shouldn't have any issues keeping weight or growing if they're healthy and sound. My bucks are of course offered 24/7 hay and mineral. I only offer grain to bucks during rut to help keep some weight on. Typically 3qts 2x a day. I have found though, that it's usually genetic on how MUCH weight they lose during rut. I've had some go to the point they look almost emaciated no matter what I did, and I've had some that still had fat rolls! Age seems to play a part as well.
DRY YEARLINGS:
Dry yearlings are simple too. They live with my adult does and share the same always available hay and mineral. I do not offer them grain. I do not typically struggle with fat dry yearlings, despite my kid management. As mentioned earlier, they tend to lose it once the grain and milk is removed from their diet.
If you have any questions or concerns that were not answered on this post, feel free to PM me on Facebook through my personal or farm page!


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